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Sin­gle car­ry to Camp 1. Few attempt Mount Logan, and even few­er suc­ceed in reach­ing its sum­mit. Mostly I have enjoyed this mountain by wasting endless hours at the Icefield Discovery camp, sitting in a deck chair, sipping gin and tonics, and gazing at the many facets of the north face. This intensive, pre-trip program seeks to advance knowledge about the use of high-intensity interval training in hypoxia (simulated altitude) to enhance work performance in extreme environments. Descend to Base Camp. This 3 week adventure is not your typical ascent because not only will we be climbing, but we will also be spending quite a bit of time skiing on the mountain as well. Warm insulation for upper mountain, To organize gear in your duffle and pack. Crit­i­cal ben­e­fits of Rip­cord Res­cue Trav­el Insur­ance include: Group mem­bers fly into White­horse in Yukon Ter­ri­to­ries and must be present for the team meet­ing at 9 am on Day 1 of the expe­di­tion. This must be done at least 90 days before starting the climb and believe it or not there are parties that show up and want to climb it and are refused because they have not even applied for a … A new chapter in that advancement, and in adventure, began in the 1980s with the emergence of ice core science. This is an inter­me­di­ate lev­el expe­di­tion climb. We also strong­ly urge you to con­sid­er res­cue and evac­u­a­tion insur­ance if your own pol­i­cy does not pro­vide the cov­er­age need­ed. Canadian Mount Logan Expedition North America, Canada, Yukon Territory . In close collaboration with the Mountain Legacy Project at the University of Victoria, the team will follow in the footprints of the mountain’s intrepid first ascensionists and attempt to retake photographs shot during expeditions in 1925, 1950, 1970, and 1992. It is only 593 shorter than Denali. Participants will have a well-rounded history of climbing experience. UIAA – International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation, © 2020 International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) We’ll col­lect caches along the way. Mount Logan is locat­ed in the St. Elias Moun­tain Range of Canada’s Yukon Ter­ri­to­ry and is the sec­ond high­est peak in North Amer­i­ca. We will attempt to accom­mo­date changes and can­cel­la­tions, waiv­ing cer­tain fees when feasible. The climbers included Cathy Langhill, Katherine Calvert, Judy Sterner, Loraine Drewes, Diana Knaak and Sharon Wood. 31-38). Long, cylindrical cores drilled down through glaciers in the high mountain and polar regions of the world preserve information – gas bubbles, pollen, dust particles, major ions and isotopes – that scientists use to reconstruct past climate and air composition. Mount Logan sits on Canada’s massive Yukon Territory in the St. Elias Mountain Range, just around 10 miles from the Alaskan border. This is the crux of the climb, but does not involve tech­ni­cal climb­ing. Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best, Light or medium-weight fleece (or wool) top with a hood. Ice cores hold secrets of long ago climate. Mais pas suffisant. To pro­tect against loss­es due to ill­ness, acci­dent, or oth­er unfore­seen cir­cum­stances, Moun­tain Mad­ness strong­ly rec­om­mends the pur­chase of trav­el insur­ance as soon as pos­si­ble after mak­ing a deposit. You can enjoy some of the most amazing trails in the Yukon right from our doorstep. On June 12 an all Canadian party made the second ascent of Mount Logan’s east peak by the route first made in 1957 (AAJ 1958, pp. Bring enough for the entire trip. If you choose not to pur­chase insur­ance, you assume full respon­si­bil­i­ty for any expens­es incurred in the event of a med­ical emer­gency and/​or evac­u­a­tion, as well as for trip can­cel­la­tion, inter­rup­tion, lost lug­gage, etc. Our property borders Kluane National Park, and is just 9 km from Haines Junction. Acquire all of your equipment well in advance. Return to Camp 4. Terms of Use, ALL ABOUT THE MOUNT LOGAN ICE EXPEDITION 2020-21, RCGS-sponsored Geological Survey of Canada expedition, COVID 19 TASKFORCE: WORLDWIDE CLIMBING PICTURE, Launching the first-ever global survey on waste in mountains: Add your voice, UIAA MEMBERS ANNOUNCE ELECTION OF NEW PRESIDENTS, KIROV BRINGS DOWN CURTAIN ON 2020-21 SEASON. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on! A six-hour, night-sched­ule haul on low­er angle glac­i­er to the entrance of the King Trench. Guid­ed attempts have been few, so this will be a gold­en oppor­tu­ni­ty, espe­cial­ly for Cana­di­ans, to sum­mit Canada’s high­est peak! The biggest chunk of rock, ice and snow in the world. Mount Logan Expeditions. Two concurrent projects will be carried out alongside the ice-core work: a physiology study, and a historical landscape analysis. For his 20-day expedition to the summit of Mount Logan, Jeff charges CAD$7,700 per person. Drilled to bedrock, the long 190-metre “PR Col core” gave scientists a window into 20,000 years of climate history, making it one of the most valuable non-polar, high-resolution records in existence for atmospheric climate change in the region. A Few Tips on Gear for the Mt. MMI must strict­ly adhere to can­cel­la­tion poli­cies out­side MMI’s control. How much does it cost to climb Mount Logan? Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Move to Camp 5 on the sum­mit plateau. Weigh it. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip! On our 21-day trip we saw nobody after day six. 2021 Major Grant Expedition. For a quote, or to pur­chase trav­el insur­ance, please click this link Rip­cord Res­cue Trav­el Insur­ance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. The Perfect Alternative to Denali. Please review our equipment list and contact us with any questions - Mount Logan Expedition equipment list. Lightweight and waterproof, Makes identifying your bags easy at airports or hotels, Full length inflatable. It took him years to get to the top of a mountain where he could do it, but he finally played the world’s highest bridge game on the top of Mount Logan at 19,850 feet. At Camp 2 we’ll switch back to night sched­ule for the low­er-ele­va­tion trav­el to Base Camp. With this scale comes iso­la­tion, so team mem­bers may well feel they are tho only ones around for miles and miles, expe­ri­enc­ing wilder­ness in the purest sense. A Fellow of the Royal Canadian Geographical Society, Robinson is an avid climber and backcountry skier, and has a special affinity for the Yukon’s Icefield Ranges. Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. Average summer temperatures on the summit plateau hover around -27° C, and tremendous snowfall in the area produces an area of glaciation second only to the polar regions of Antarctica and Greenland. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is recommended and ideal, Helly Hansen Vanir, Feathered Friends Volant, Marmot Guide’s Down Hoody, Outdoor Research Virtuoso Hoody, This is what you will be wearing while hiking at higher altitudes or while kicking around camps at lower altitude. cleaning glasses, sun protection when tied around the neck, etc. Logan is difficult to reach by foot as it is surrounded by some of the largest glaciers in the world and that it is 140km from the nearest road. Its many saw-tooth ridges, “like a cosmic comb,” rake moisture from the almost countless, year-round storms produced over the Pacific. Cascade Express - 3 classics in one trip, Featured If you are in remote areas, please note that emer­gency res­cue & evac­u­a­tion can be very expen­sive. The University of Alberta’s Mount Logan Ice Expedition (www.loganice.ca) is grateful for the support from The Royal Canadian Geographical Society, The Alpine Club of Canada, Mountain Hardwear, Xact Nutrition and Air North. from $8,985 Our guid­ed ascent to Mount Logan epit­o­mizes Moun­tain Mad­ness’ spir­it of adven­ture and will pro­vide a huge chal­lenge, but one with incred­i­ble reward. First, beginning in September 2019, the Edmonton-based members of the team will work closely with UAlberta sport scientists studying altitude acclimatization performance utilizing a novel training regime. Site by Kin Inc. Working closely with Parks Canada, and our community partners from the Kluane First Nation, our international, multidisciplinary team consists of ice-core scientists and glaciologists, a historian, a physiologist, and a Parks Canada Visitor Safety Specialist. Throw … Its remoteness, combined with arctic conditions make Logan one of … Synthetic or down filled. Trip leaders will be UIAGM certified guides. Glasses wearers should have a spare set, Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing, It can be a cold walk to the toilet at night. The river drains a rugged and arid region of the Colorado Plateau west of the San Juan Mountains. No cotton! Phone: 1-867-841-4204: Mobile: That means thou­sands attempt 20,320-foot Denali each year, while less than 100 attempt 19,551-foot Mount Logan. Pos­si­bly move a small load. On the way to Mount Logan. Although Logan is the high­est sum­mit in Cana­da it is still sec­ond in North Amer­i­ca. Mount Logan Expedition. All are experienced climbers. Our guides know the moun­tain and may elect to depart from this itin­er­ary in order to give you the best pos­si­ble shot at get­ting to the summit. this will only be necessary as a back-up. Author: Hans Gmoser. The 2020 Mount Logan Ice Expedition will be his fourth trip to the Saint Elias Mountains, and his third to Mount Logan. The climb­ing style of the two is quite sim­i­lar, how­ev­er, with four to five camps being set up in the course of two weeks, a car­ry high, sleep low tac­tic is what we favor. – 25 Days, Includes Glacier flights and shuttle from Whitehorse to Kluane Lake (RT). Many fac­tors can, and prob­a­bly will, con­tribute to cause the fol­low­ing sched­ule to change. The starting point of this expedition … We’ll grab three days of food at Prospec­tor’s Col along the way before descend­ing to camp on the great ice plateau. Expeditions to Mount Logan. Start by eliminating unnecessary luxuries. Moun­tain Mad­ness has part­nered with Red­point Res­o­lu­tions as our pre­ferred trav­el insur­ance provider. Will be stored at hotel, to be used after trip, A very large stuff sack 2,000 cubic inches (35 liters). The Mount Logan Ice Expedition 2020-2021 is a multidisciplinary scientific initiative that seeks to preserve, celebrate, and advance knowledge about climate and change on Canada’s highest peak. Mount Logan is a mountain located on the Gaspé Peninsula, in Quebec, Canada. King Col Car­ry to 12,500 below Camp 3, return to Camp 2. Ces deux-là ont donc corsé l’affaire par une descente en eaux vives. A thin balaclava will add significant warmth on that cold summit day, 100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case, To fit over glacier glasses in high wind. Logan Expedition May - June TBA. Purifies drinking water while on the climb. In 2001 and 2002, the oldest ice-core record ever collected from the North Pacific region was drilled by a team of federal scientists high on Mount Logan’s summit plateau, near the saddle between Prospector and Russell peaks (5,300 metres). Rose or amber lenses, One pair medium-weight for daily wear when it’s not too cold, Black Diamond Arc, Arcteryx Zenta LT Glove, Insulated, water resistant shell with leather palms, One pair Gore-Tex or equivalent, with textured palms and taped seams. Group flies in from the US side to the border via Turbo Otter, a … Great for colder conditions over a pair of long underwear or tights higher on the mountain or summit day, Outdoor Research Voodoo, Mountain Hardwear Touren, Patagonia Guide, waterproof and breathable with side zips (minimum of ¾ zips recommended) Gore-Tex or equivalent, Synthetic or down with full side zip. Contact Information info@icefielddiscovery.com. This pad is used in conjunction with the first pad, Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing, Black Diamond Couloir, Petzl Altitude, Petzl Hirundos, under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm, Steel 12-pont. Not only is Mount Logan’s bulk ​“more than any oth­er moun­tain in the West­ern Hemi­sphere,” but its neigh­bors – Mount Saint Elias, Mount Bona, Mount King and McArthur – boast equal­ly mas­sive relief and equal­ly sto­ried moun­taineer­ing his­to­ries. Personne n’avait ridé l’East ridge, cette arrête de 3800 m de dénivelé, alors forcément c’était tentant pour Hélias Millerioux et son compère Thomas Delfino. If prop­er writ­ten can­cel­la­tion notice is not received, amounts paid and reser­va­tions made will be forfeited. Stellar Hut. Scale unimaginable, Location Remote. While the King Trench is far and away the most fre­quent­ly climbed route on Logan, it is unlike Denali, which has a semi-per­ma­nent park ser­vice ranger patrol, hun­dreds of climbers at camp and on route, and nev­er-end­ing plane traf­fic. Trip starts and ends in Anchorage. We have our own Mountain Madness neck gaiter available for purchase! It’s important that you jacket is 700+ fill down, baffle construction (not sewn through seams) and as a thick, insulated hood, Feathered Friends Rock and Ice Parka, Marmot 8000 Meter Parka, This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun, Softshell pants are water resistant, yet highly breathable and durable. complete, go back through all of your equipment with a fine-toothed comb. The Dolores River is a tributary of the Colorado River, approximately 241 miles (388 km) long, in the U.S. states of Colorado and Utah. If you decide to can­cel your trip or change your itin­er­ary, MMI must be noti­fied in writ­ing. Every­thing about the trip is big, includ­ing the scale of the region’s geog­ra­phy, which is enor­mous. Terms & Conditions | Privacy Policy, Glacier Mountaineering Course -crevasse rescue, summit of Mount Baker, and more, Glac­i­er trav­el, steep snow and ice climb­ing to 50-degrees, Sus­tained expe­di­tion trav­el uti­liz­ing sleds, Win­ter camp­ing and long work days at altitude, Climbers should be in excel­lent phys­i­cal con­di­tion and have a healthy and team-ori­ent­ed expe­di­tion mentality, All group equip­ment (tents, climb­ing gear, etc), Hotel accom­mo­da­tions in Whitehorse/​Kluane, Trav­el insur­ance with trip can­cel­la­tion, med­ical and evac­u­a­tion policy, $1,500 deposit upon con­fir­ma­tion of your eli­gi­bil­i­ty to join the expe­di­tion, which includes a $300 non-refund­able reg­is­tra­tion fee, Bal­ance due 120 days pri­or to departure, The bal­ance may be paid by check, wire trans­fer, ACH or cred­it card with a 3% con­ve­nience fee. Few places on Earth are as high, and cold, and remote as Mount Logan. Although com­pa­ra­ble with oth­er big moun­tain clas­sics, such as Aconcagua, Mount Ever­est, Vin­son, and Nun, Mount Logan is often over­looked, but cer­tain­ly among the great­est expe­di­tions on the planet. The climb of Mount Logan, Canada’s high­est peak, is sim­i­lar to Denali in expe­di­tion char­ac­ter and length, yet more extreme due to its remote­ness and lev­el of com­mit­ment. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is mandatory. We will then trans­fer via van to Klu­ane Lake for pick up by Ulti­ma Thule Air Taxi Service. Today, for example, ice core science plays a critical role in understanding and preparing for the imminent challenges of climate change. He was a wry, somewhat reserved man with a magnificent sense of humor and delighted in artfully contriving jokes for his expeditions. Pric­ing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and lev­el of coverage. Return to camp 5. Kilimanjaro in the time of Covid. Due to the per­son­al­ized ser­vice we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. The Mount Logan massif is located in the Southwest corner of the Yukon Territory in Western Canada, just above the 60th parallel. The high-altitude site boasted extremely low horizontal ice velocities, meaning that the ice contained little melt or deformation and so climate record was well preserved. In 1974, Calvert had become one of the first female national park wardens in Canada. Our initiative involves two separate spring expeditions to the mountain to take advantage of the best weather window. The massif boasts the largest base circumference of any non-volcanic mountain on Earth. The techniques that are available for analyzing ice cores, and the range of information that can be extracted from them, are always advancing, and so the collecting and archiving of these icy records is of vital importance. The massif is inside Kluane National Park and is the crown-jewel of the St-Elias Mountains. In May 2021, with the exact drill site located, we’ll return to the mountain to complete the actual drilling work. To block out snoring and other noise to ensure a good night's sleep, Two one-liter wide-mouthed plastic bottles, hydration bladder or water bag with drinking tube (must also have 1 Nalgene Bottle or equivalent). Climbers should be comfortable on 45 to 60 degree snow/ice slopes, waterfall ice climbing up to WI2-WI3, and/or moderate rock from 5.6-5.8. Car­ry to 15,300 feet / 4663 meters. Blog. Yet for all its extraordinary severities, Mount Logan—from its earliest ascent in 1925 by government surveyors with the ACC to the Arctic Institute of North America’s decade-long High Altitude Physiology Study in the 1970s—has constantly been a productive site for the advancement of scientific knowledge. The University of Alberta is preparing to return to Mount Logan’s summit plateau in May of 2020 and 2021, with the intent to drill an updated core and bring the record to present, as well as to advance other projects by deploying new analytical methods. Au cœur des grands espaces du Yukon : le Mont Logan, deuxième plus haut sommet d’Amérique du nord. This work will add an additional two weeks of living on the high plateau itself. Mount Logan is the highest mountain in Canada, and the second-highest peak in North America after Denali. Our first expedition in May 2020 will be a reconnaissance, utilizing ground-penetrating radar that will allow us to look at the internal structure of the ice on the plateau and find the best coring location. In 1925 Albert H. MacCarthy had just led a successful first ascent of Mount Logan in Canada, composed of climbers from Canada, Britain and the United States. All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large heavyweight plastic bags (trash compactor bags work great), Toothbrush and paste, comb, tampons, biodegradable soap (small amount), etc. Due to the remoteness of this expedition, the higher altitude and latitudes encountered, careful preparation is required. Donnatal for stomach cramps. Hardly the site, one might think, for careful and exacting scientific study. Weath­er per­mit­ting, we’ll fly to base camp on the Quinti­no Sel­la Glacier. Mount Logan 1977. The mountain was named after Sir William Edmond Logan, a Canadian geologist and founder of the Geological Survey of Canada (GSC). Red Tape. We con­sid­er it a notch above Denali in seri­ous­ness. While a helicopter can sling-load drill equipment up onto the plateau with a pilot on oxygen, the team must climb there over a three-week period, from a base camp at 3,000 metres (following the standard “King Trench” mountaineering route), in order to properly acclimatize and be able to work safely at altitude. From King Col we’ll route find up the Mac­Carthy Gap, a 1,500-foot high slope with angles of up to 45 degrees. The Mount Logan mas­sif is part of the most exten­sive non-polar ice­field in the world. Der Mount Logan 5.959 m im einsamen Wrangell-St. Elias-Gebirge ist der höchste Berg Kanadas und nach dem Denali der zweithöchste Gipfel Nordamerikas. Unprece­dent­ed in audac­i­ty, scale, and logis­ti­cal chal­lenge, and cul­mi­nat­ing in a des­per­ate float down the Chiti­na Riv­er when all team mem­bers could no longer walk due to frost­bite, many con­sid­er the orig­i­nal expe­di­tion to be ​“among the most ardu­ous moun­tain adven­tures ever under­tak­en.” It is all the more impres­sive as it was the first ever attempt, by any route, on the moun­tain – a true adven­ture of epic pro­por­tions into the unknown. Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. © 2021 Mountain Madness, Inc. You aren’t like­ly to think of it now, but peo­ple do get ill, break a bone, have a fam­i­ly emer­gency or get assigned to a last-minute busi­ness trip. Swiss Expedition Mount Logan, 5959 müMApril 30 - May 15, 2014Lukas Richli, Patrick Baldinger, Stefan Leumann, Rich Prohaska. Cir­cum­stances out­side the con­trol of MMI and its part­ners, may require amend­ed cancellation/​refund poli­cies. Albert H. MacCarthy Lantern Slide Collection. Featured Climb Year: 1959. Depart at 7am for Klu­ane Lake (two hours by shut­tle), and then fly to Base Camp. Mount Logan Ice Expedition 2021-2022 A multidisciplinary scientific initiative that seeks to preserve, share, and advance knowledge about climate and change on Canada’s highest peak. Twelve distinct peaks rise above 5,000 metres (16,400 ft) from its twenty-kilometre-long summit plateau. Protected by a sea of glaciers and some fantastically unpredictable weather. Kein Nachteil, so meinen wir! Albert H. MacCarthy Collection. This jacket should be full-zip, A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers, Outdoor Research Foray, Patagonia Triolet, This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. Please dispose of human wastes as required by Parks Canada. All loads are car­ried by team mem­bers with the use of glac­i­er sleds. STEWARDSHIP: Please consider the environmental impact of your trash and human waste. It is not dif­fi­cult ter­rain, but a very demand­ing day of 10 – 15 hours. If you want to charge your electronics along the way, a small, lightweight solar panel to charge batteries or portable charging device may be a good addition, Most come in kits with all the plugs you need. It is a long, high alti­tude walk of 3 — 4 miles to the sum­mit from high camp. MacCarthy, an American and member of the American Alpine Club, wrote a number of reports and summaries of the expedition, including this list This allows time to pick up last minute gear and sup­plies at the Cana­di­an Super­store, River­side Gro­cery, and Coastal Moun­tain Sports (http://​www​.cmsyukon​.ca). With the help of an air taxi approach from Klu­ane Lake to the Alaskan-Yukon bor­der, today’s teams can cut the expe­di­tion length to a man­age­able three weeks. Our guid­ed ascent to Mount Logan epit­o­mizes Moun­tain Mad­ness’ spir­it of adven­ture and will pro­vide a … The fol­low­ing itin­er­ary rep­re­sents a very basic out­line of what could hap­pen on a giv­en day dur­ing the course of a Logan expe­di­tion. Make a cache at around 15,300 feet / 4663 meters for Camp 4 and return to King Col. A short day to rest and accli­ma­tize. Steri Pen, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine. Logan, Utah 1979 . Bring extra batteries and memory! Full refund, less the non-refund­able deposit/​registration fee, will be pro­vid­ed 121 days or more before the depar­ture date, No refunds will be pro­vid­ed 120 days or less before the depar­ture date, A com­plete­ly inte­grat­ed pro­gram with a sin­gle point of con­tact for emer­gency ser­vices, trav­el assis­tance, and insur­ance claims, Evac­u­a­tion and res­cue ser­vices from your point of injury or ill­ness to your hos­pi­tal of choice, Com­pre­hen­sive trav­el insur­ance for trip cancellation/​interruption, pri­ma­ry med­ical expense cov­er­age, bag­gage loss or delay, emer­gency acci­dent and emer­gency sick­ness med­ical expense, emer­gency den­tal, acci­den­tal death and dis­mem­ber­ment, and more, Option­al secu­ri­ty evac­u­a­tion cov­er­age in case of an unplanned nat­ur­al dis­as­ter or oth­er secu­ri­ty events.

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